Design and Merchandising Trans Positive Apparel
An impactful area of research of the IIL has been working on understanding the role of apparel in trans and gender non-binary identity and transition, including understanding the health implications of chest binding to design safer chest binders.
Developing user-driven product products that address appearance and functional needs of trans and gender non-binary individuals.
Featured Project Chest Binding Practices for Trans and Non-Binary Individuals within Different Spatiotemporalities
In our most recent project, we hone in on chest binder. There is very little research in this area, particularly related to the health of chest binding. It is assumed that chest binders serve a solely functional purpose. Therefore the binders available on the market do not reflect the user’s expressive or aesthetic values. A national survey (N = 64) found that the decision to bind is mediated by emotional, physical, and cultural considerations for trans and gender non-binary individuals. Further, apparel can be protective (in supporting gender identity) and negatively impact individuals’ health.
Manuscripts and creative scholarship works are in progress from this work and focus on developing an improved chest binder that considers the emotional, physical, and cultural aspects of binding while reflecting the user’s values. This research is particularly enriching because this work gives focus to users with unique functional apparel requirements that aim to align appearance and identity.
Selected Scholarship
Publications
An exploration of apparel and well-being among transmasculine young adults
Teti, M., Morris, K., Bauerband, L., Rolbiecki, A., & Young, C. (2019). An exploration of apparel and well-being among transmasculine young adults. Journal of LGBT Youth, 17(1), 53-69. https://doi.org/10.1080/19361653.2019.1611519.
Design Scholarship
Visible - Trans Positive Apparel
Morris, K. (2017, November). Visible - Trans Positive Apparel. Clothing for trans or gender non-binary people can promote gender expression, decrease social stigmas, and improve body image during transition periods. This ensemble was created for non-binary individuals and is the first design concept from a more extensive research study that employed Photovoice, user-center design methods to pinpoint specific apparel ideas for the trans community. International Textile and Apparel Association, St. Petersburg, Florida. Acceptance Rate: 38%. doi: https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/itaa_proceedings/2017/design/30 -Acceptance Rate: 42.6%
Presentations
Why Bind? Emotional, Physical, and Cultural Considerations for Trans and Gender Non-Binary Individuals.
Morris, K., Green, D., Streck, K., Reddy-Best, K., Reilly, A., & Doty, K. (2020). Why Bind? Emotional, Physical, and Cultural Considerations for Trans and Gender Non-Binary Individuals. Presented at the annual meeting of International Textile and Apparel Association, Virtual Conference. doi: https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.12217
Why Bind? Public, Private, and Secret Self Chest Binding for Trans and Gender Non-Conforming Individuals
Reddy-Best, K., Reilly, A., Morris, K., Green, D., Streck, K.*, & Doty, K. (2020). Why Bind? Public, Private, and Secret Self: Chest Binding for Trans and Gender Non-Conforming Individuals. Presented at the annual meeting of International Textile and Apparel Association, Virtual Conference. doi: https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.11848
Photovoice: A user-centered design method to understand apparel needs of Female to Male (FTM) in gender identity and expression
Morris, K., & Teti, M. (2017). Photovoice: A user-centered design method to understand apparel needs of Female to Male (FTM) in gender identity and expression. Presented at the annual meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association, St. Petersburg, Florida. doi:
Picturing trans-positive apparel: Showcasing the links between image, gender identity, and health via Photovoice
Teti, M. & Morris, K. (2017). Picturing trans-positive apparel: Showcasing the links between image, gender identity, and health via Photovoice. Presented at the 23rd annual meeting of the Qualitative Health Research Conference. Quebec City, Quebec. doi: https://doi.org/10.1177/1609406917748703
Transgender Spectrum Conference
Teti, M., & Morris, K. (2017). Using participatory photography to showcase the links between apparel, gender identity, and well-being among transmasculine individuals. Presented at the Transgender Spectrum Conference. St. Louis, Missouri.